For one side you will need the following:

Small plastic spacer 3 (plus 1 just for the case)

Block type spacer 1

Screw 7 (a minimum) - 11(max)

For the installing you will need:

- a drill with 3 mm core and for the sills a 5-8-10mm core whatever you find by hand. The hidden front part of the inner sill has to be opened, so instead of puncturing with the big drill core you can use a chisel and hammer (although this is a more hard way, but produces no metal dust, that would cause rust). In any case the aperture on the sill has to be at least 2x2 cm. I will do a picture where exactly look for this area.

-you will need a crosshead screwdriver and a 10mm wrench (second one for the once and all remove of the plastic seal plate toward the cabin. The plastic is kept by 3 screws)

-have a small amount of cheap paint (colour indifferent as not viewable) by hand. The aperture on the sill will have blank metal edges. Over this you may find areas to cover inside the front door pillars, the headlamp region, or those lost the original ground, or other rusty edges. You can keep a small amount of rust converter and a separate brush by hand.

-get a work clothing, as few times you have to climb below the car

How to:

- I recommend you start with the left side (this is easier, the right side nerves with too close edges, so you need some practice before getting to this).

- secure and lift the car (one side once is enough, but your drill with the 3 mm core has to fit handily below the sill and below the structure beam near the gearbox) if you use the original jack, it would be good to insert a support below the near end of the front suspension's console. The job is solvable with the jack only but it will be in the way when getting on the lower outer mount.

- when wheel and the original plastic/rubber seal toward cabin are removed, I inspect and touch down the surfaces by hand. Where crusty mud is settled on, I brush it down (with a nail brush or kitchen brush, plastic only). Important to clean the inner edge of the wing. I recommend to do the cleaning job dry, or the wet mud can cause an incredible dirt :-(

Very important the area over and beside headlights (the known rust spots) and front turn signal. You can use a piece of wire to pick out everything just above the headlight. I don't let anything sit there, and if the ground became loose, rip out the hanging parts. Check the side turn signal for proper function, or you can even look at/change the bulb just to be sure. This procedure will be difficult with wheel covers installed. :-o

- with a piece of wire, flat screwdriver or saw blade you can check out what amount of mud is collected at the door pillar behind the plastic seal. A few handful of mud is here usual, and this gets never dry :-( (a main cause of rust eating out the front end of the sills) remove the mud as good as you can. You can wet or wash out the area with the rust converter solution. If you detect rusty spots or areas lost the original paint, remember to paint these over, probably after letting become dry from the rust converter.

-locate the inner sill to make the front aperture. The area to attack is at the very lower end of the slot toward door pillar. (area with the red dots, see the first picture)

The picture wants to show the front left wheel area, with the lower edge of the door and wing (color is white)

The blue area: hole toward cabin, originally covered by that plastic (will be removed forever)

Gray area: where the wheel throws the mud on

You have to be careful, as the whole sill is only 3 cm wide at the bottom, 2 cm wide at the top, and 4-5 cm high. A good starting point where the lower screw for the plastic seal was (lower green dot). Remove the clip and take a thin screwdriver to locate where the walls are inside. Careful widen up the aperture, starting in one edge downward (if you chose to use chisel and hammer). After getting forward, touch behind the edge at the area, how far you can go. If you work with the big drill cores, carefully you can make holes along the area, then break out the unneeded fleck from the metal. While opening the sills you have to be careful not getting into the cabin. Just on the inner side of the inner wall is the driver’s/passenger’s leg :-).

- in the meantime, while opening the sills, the rust converted areas will become dry. Everything of blank metal you can paint over with the cheap paint. In this work phase (or earlier while brushing out the mud) you can take out a tricky hidden rubber plug. If you allow the air enter here, the front windshield pillars become ventilated too. This rubber plug is of 5 cm diameter, but in few cases hard to find (too much layers of grounding on it). You can find it if you touch into the area 10-15 cm over the brake disc, so 5 cm toward cabin. There is a short vertical support console, and the plug is on its side outward. Probably you will feel only a small bump on it, but that is the hole we are looking for. The plug is in height of your head, if you sit on the wheel and try to reach the short console. The plug comes out by letting jump one edge by a flat screwdriver into the hole, and then you can pull it out by hand.

- the next step is pulling on the spacers. The single thick one comes below the sill (point 4 on the picture), on the lower edge, 2-3 cm before the car jack hole. Beware, the cover reaches only to the jack hole, not behind it. You have to be sure there is enough space for this spacer on the inside of the edge (thick side comes below the car, thin side outward) probably you will need to move the spacer a little bit, as sometimes the weld job is not so great below the sill at this point.

For the thick spacer I use a separate jack to press completely on its place, and don’t let it jump down while drilling the hole across. You will need the 3 mm drill and place the bore to cross the outer thin half of the plastic, the 3 metal layers of the sill’s edge and (not completely) the inner half of the plastic. If deep enough, you can let run the drill a few seconds ‘empty’ in the hole, to let widen up the diameter (on the sill’s edge are 3 metals to cut through with the screw’s winding, and sometimes it won’t pass in too easy).

- then you can insert the small spacers on the front wing. These are not yet to bore!! They are used with the narrow side toward wheel (so between the wing and the cover will be a 3 mm spacing). There is one spacer on the top (nr 1), and two on the front and rear lower areas (2, 3). Place these two 10 cm back from the curvature/edge. I have found I need in almost every case a 4th spacer on the cabin side (not marked on the picture due in need to localise for each case), so about on the halfway between the lower (3) and the top (1) spacer. Without this plus 4th it would work too, but is real hard to keep the 2-3 mm distance in this area (it becomes mostly too narrow).

- Then you can put the cover on place, and on the inside above suspension let it jump on the upper rubber stopper’s metal housing (need to sit behind the edge). Since this moment you can make one screw, the cross head screw driver and the 3 mm drill ready by hand. Keeping with one hand you can test, how the cover would fit. You have to keep it at the top spacer (1), pulling out and pressing upward at the same time. Before making the bore you have first to check, how the wing’s line is followed, the rear flat area sitting on the sill’s edge spacer and on the inside below the car (I press it here on place with one foot). While this balancing and repositioning look diligently how the spacing comes out along the arch of the wing and at the front chassis panel below headlight (the cover’s front needs to go below the edge, with maybe few mm distance) don’t haste on with doing the first bore hole, this steps makes sure everything fits fine. You can move the cover more toward front or backward, while being able to turn it (say front side edge in, rear outward a little bit). If you are unsure, find at least a position, where the wing spacing comes out nice. Don’t worry about the edge raging over the wing, this will be cut afterward. At every spacer the cover needs to be pulled to outermost position.

- If you have found a fine position, hold the cover pressed on the top spacer while pulling outward, and make the hole across the spacer. Don’t let it come too close to the wing (try find the middle). Put the screw on place, and turn it in (without making it tight yet.) You can still modify the front and end position. In most cases you have to watch more the front area, the rear is easier to fix. The next two bores are for the two lower spacers (2 and 3). At that one toward cabin you have to watch out how the arch toward the sill spacer comes out. The cover has to follow the wing as narrow as possible (but not touching it) probably you will need to move this spacer more deep. If the spacing is not nice somewhere, the 4th spare spacer (if applicable, not marked on the picture) can be moved over here. So probably few times you will have to unscrew the top spacer’s screw, take out the whole cover, check the position of the questioned spacers and set forth the screw-on. It is worth the plus work.

If the wing side is ready, you can make the bore at the sill’s edge (4) INTO the thick spacer’s plastic body (while pulling the whole flat rear area of the cover backward to stay fixed) and look for making the other screw hole deep below the car (5). For the last one most time I fix the inner corner on the flat cross support bar. Here is no spacer used at the bore. The screw is placed close to the brick type curvature on the cover’s edge (that is needed by the full bottom cover installation, where the elements are laying on each other)

- One more screw is to do: you have to secure the front inner edge of the cover. Look for the corner right before the lower suspension arm, and push it out to the wall (6). This is quite tricky to keep in place while holding the drill with the other hand. One thing you have to watch out here: locate the hole as deep as possible. It has to go through the bottom edge of the console running to front of the car. This is again a though place (too many layers, as the sill’s edge) so you can keep the drill carefully run in the hole few seconds, to make turning-in the screw easy.

If you dislike the edge raging out of the wing, you have to cut it down. It can be done on the car, but you have to watch out not to damage the paint. For this lazy method I use a big flat bread knife, and one side is completely covered with glue tape (watch out which is your working hand, also how you keep the knife in position). Of course this will be not the cutter, but the lay-on tool to avoid reaching the chassis with the real cutter. A sharp wallpaper cutter is able to shorten the edge. Check after short distances how straight the line becomes. At the point going below the sill I recommend to keep the edge, because it can protect the side of the car from the mud.

The other method is to take a pen or pencil, that is able to mark the (painted) surface. You paint a line along the wing where the edge has to be cut. Then you unscrew the screws, take out the cover again, cut down the edge and install the cover again. So is the paint not in danger, and the edge will be fine.

At the RIGHT side cover is an additional hurdle. Keeping the nice wing distance is more tricky, and the edge comes out quite narrow on the cabin’s side. If you have everything finished on this side, something you will have to correct. The upper suspension arm comes too close to the cover (cabin side) here you have to cut out a 5 by 3 cm triangle from the edge. I try to give an idea of it ion the paint.

Red is the inner edge of the cover. Black and gray is the rubber stopper area. Ugly blue is the upper suspension arm. The purple line has to be cut to free up the travel of the suspension arm just up to the rubber.